Chisinau

After some great days in Kyiv I next set off for Chisinau. While planning my route to Chisinau I realised that the shortest and most convenient route would pose a challenge as it would cut through the breakaway state called Transnitria that is found in the narrow strip of land between Moldova and Ukraine. It is surreal that such places still exist in our times and most people are unaware of this region that is internationally recognised as Moldova but I understand that it broke away from Moldova following the dissolution of the USSR when a bunch of Russian military personnel stationed in the region decided they would prefer to make a militaristic socialist state with ex-soviet war toys rather than becoming part of the of Moldova. After discussing crossing this route with several Ukrainian and Moldovans they all advised me to drive around because I would struggle a lot completing the paperwork with my non-existent Russian to cross borders first into Transnitria and then into Moldova without even considering security issues. Essentially they thought I would have a good chance to have my motorbike disappeared. I am however super intrigued to visit Transnitria in the future and will probably do so by bus from Chisinau so it will be less problematic.

Taking into account the advise from locals I did the prudent thing and instead of driving the shortest route I circled around Transnitria to get into Moldova hoping it would go seamlessly. This was not trivial as it turned a 462 km 6hr drive into a 600 km 8hr30mins drive. Despite avoiding Transnitria the border crossing was still a very long and funny procedure. There was no problem exiting the Ukrainian border and also dealing with the Moldovan border staff. However to allow me to drive into Moldova I was required to get insurance for the motorbike. The insurance broker was a lady running a little office next to her house and she had no English knowledge and generally struggled using a computer. As I was struggling with communicating in her office and her chickens were walking in and out I realised the only way to complete the paperwork was to call a new friend I made in Kyiv to help with translating between me and the insurance lady. Julia was really kind and patient and I owe it to her translation help that I could complete the insurance paperwork and get into Moldova.

Little insurance office on the Moldovan border where I was stuck until I could get over the phone russian translation from my friend Julia in Kyiv.

The first thing I did upon arriving to Chisinau was to check in at an amazing hotel called Cosmos dating back to Soviet times. They have not renewed anything since Soviet times so it was like travelling back in time and staying in a room that would make Lenin very proud. The next morning I set off to visit the city. Chisinau is not so big so it's definitely possible to visit many for the important sights by foot.

I stayed in soviet-era Hotel Cosmos with a statue of Grigorii Kotovskii a Russian civil war Soviet figure with an interesting past.

The most centric area to visit sights around is the Cathedral Park. The Chisinau cathedral and bell tower in this park were completed in Neoclassical style in 1836. In the park it is also possible to find the Triumphal arch built in 1841 to commemorate the Russian victory in the Russo-Turkish war of 1828-1829. Facing the park is the Government House in Chisinau which was originally the headquarter of the Council of Ministers of the Moldovan SSR but now serves as a government building with the prime minister office.

Chisinau Cathedral.

Bell tower.

Triumphal arch.

Government House.

In other areas around town within walking distance of Cathedral park it is possible to see other interesting sights including the Eternity Memorial Complex dedicated to soviet soldiers who died in the battles against the German-Romanian troops of the Second World War, an ancient Synagogue in ruins, and the Moldovan academy of sciences with the adjacent liberation statue.

Eternity Memorial Complex.

Ruins of Rabbi Tirilson Synagogue.

Moldovan academy of sciences with the liberation statue.

Chisinau was a nice town to visit and very manageable to see by foot. In the future I look forward to returning and also to travel from Chsinau to Transnitria.

Travel from Kyiv to Chisinau: 600kms in 8hr30.

Total travel for the trip: 6170kms in 79hr30.

More pictures:

After crossing into Moldova fiest few kilometers of road were gravel which is awful for my road bike.

Despite mixed road conditions the scenery was great.

Mural by Hotel Cosmos.

Entrance to abandoned city park.

Another nice building currently abandoned.

Ministry of Internal Affairs.

National Library of Moldova.

Atrium shopping center.

Stephen the Great Monument.

Cathedral Park with Triumphal Arc, bell tower and Cathedral.

Military Museum.

Yard of the Military Museum.

Yard of the Military Museum.

Yard of the Military Museum.

National Museum of History of Moldova.

National Museum of History of Moldova.

Chisinau Town Hall.

Street art.

Monument to Cosmonauts.

Central Market.